On Saturday after heavy fight I overcame a difficult disease. I get infected by black plague two years ago. At first try it seemed to be invincible, but than the cure was coming closer move by move. Last year I almost smelled the taste of glory but the season ended to fast and the diseased stayed unhealed. I stayed determined to beat it and trained as hard as possible during long wet winter.
When sun came to sleeping country to wake it up from winter freeze I touched the rock and knew the time had come. I was stronger then ever and psyched like a beast. I started the battle two weeks ago and soon took control of the disease. I became just one move away from victory when mental game began. I really want to win and that wish started to block me. It was so close but only if I did it perfect. Three times I fell just before the final jugs of 60-moves-without-rest-monster. I was disappointed but luckily there was a doctor who knew the secret of wining: You mustn't want to do it but you should focused to climb the best, to try the hardest and to move perfectly.
And La peste nera was beaten and I was free of burden. The route with ugly name which means "black plague" is pure power endurance without any good rest in local Trieste crag Baratro. It is my second 8b+ (former 8c!) and I believe not last and not the hardest I will done.
Last year unsuccessful try in La peste nera.
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| Climbing Placoman in Baratro, La peste nera is two routs more right. |
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| Apache kid in Baratro. |
