Monday, 25 August 2014

Youth camp Kotečnik

The last days of August, announcing the end of the holidays but it's also time for Kotečnik. This time I was leading the camp for the third year in a raw and I found it every year better. The largest team so far was also the strongest. 18 youth climbers from 8 to 16 years was gathered from different parts of Slovenia and even five girls from Croatia.

International team in action, Martina, Maša and Jani.

Despite the variable weather we climb six days out of seven and had some sunny moments almost every day. Our days started with morning jogging and some exercises, continued with good breakfast which was followed by whole day climbing. After an exhausting day we afford a delicious dinner at farm Tratnik where was our camp base. Before falling asleep we played some games or watching climbers movies. On rest day we made cycling tour to Šmohor and for award got an ice cream.

Cycling tour on Šmohor.

Every day we were breaking our personal records and enjoys in every single move. Noa climbed some 6a, Nik, Maša, Alice and Luna did their first 6b, Živa did 6b, Žiga and Matevž climb many 6c+ and Bor did his first 6c+ after just a half year of climbing. Also Martina and only 8-years old Lucija did their first 6c+. Vana repeated her hardest route graded 7a+ and Lan repeated his hardest 7b. Kristina improved from 6c+ to 7b in 6 days. Ema send two 7b+ and many easier routes. Amazing Anej did Kraftwerk 7b+ on sight despite his short height and Jogananda 7c in second try. 12 years old Jani from Croatia send her hardest route so far Alkotest 7c+! The most epic ascent did Jaka who managed to climb CSN 8a+ in last try on last day after falling from the last holds 4 times!

We completed unforgettable climbing camp with satisfaction and big motivation for new challenges. I enjoyed like never before and cant wait to meet my kids again in September on our training. This year we will be psyched, stronger and better than ever!

Unbeatable Anej.

Ema and Kristina.

Epic ascent of Jaka in CSN.

Jani in Alkotest 7c+.

Lan in Zlata streha 7b.

Lucija with kitty.

Power snack.

Instructor Luka in Guernica.

Monday, 21 July 2014

Welcome to La la land!

This year Borut and me decided to stay at home and enjoy summer in our little but wonderful country. Here are the best summer climbing destinations and too much little things to do that would be really pity to miss it. Beautiful mountains, sparkling rivers, lively seaside, fresh vegetables from my own garden, biking through the forest hills, picnic with friends and many other summer joys are the things I want to experience this year. There is also some work that I got and I could not miss the opportunity to prove myself. 
But still I couldn't resist to travel and Yesterday I reach the La la land by sanding my third 8b+! We started the weekend on Slovenian seaside to relax and continue on Čreta to put some great effort on climbing projects. Wind made almost perfect conditions despite high temperature, fingers were strong and mind determined. I am looking forward to new summer adventures in Slovenian La la land ;)

Before lower crux, La la land 8b+ (Photo: Franc Jensterle)

Lower crux, La la land 8b+ (Photo: Franc Jensterle)
Clipping after the lower crux, La la land 8b+ (Photo: Franc Jensterle)

Rest before final upper part, La la land 8b+ (Photo: Franc Jensterle)



Tuesday, 24 June 2014

"La pesta nera" - The story about black plague

On Saturday after heavy fight I overcame a difficult disease. I get infected by black plague two years ago. At first try it seemed to be invincible, but than the cure was coming closer move by move. Last year I almost smelled the taste of glory but the season ended to fast and the diseased stayed unhealed. I stayed determined to beat it and trained as hard as possible during long wet winter.
When sun came to sleeping country to wake it up from winter freeze I touched the rock and knew the time had come. I was stronger then ever and psyched like a beast. I started the battle two weeks ago and soon took control of the disease. I became just one move away from victory when mental game began. I really want to win and that wish started to block me. It was so close but only if I did it perfect. Three times I fell just before the final jugs of 60-moves-without-rest-monster. I was disappointed but luckily there was a doctor who knew the secret of wining: You mustn't want to do it but you should focused to climb the best, to try the hardest and to move perfectly.
And La peste nera was beaten and I was free of burden. The route with ugly name which means "black plague" is pure power endurance without any good rest in local Trieste crag Baratro. It is my second 8b+ (former 8c!) and I believe not last and not the hardest I will done.

video
Last year unsuccessful try in La peste nera.

Climbing Placoman in Baratro, La peste nera is two routs more right.

Apache kid in Baratro.